A spile board is prepared - ideally this is a straight grained plank thicknessed to 5 or 6mm. Pieces can be joined ( with temporary screws) to make up the whole length of the boat - but best results are obtained if the spile board is one piece and fits the desired position approximately.
It is pegged into place carefully, using clamps only at the bow and transom. Adjustements are made until removing a peg does not cause the board to bulge or slip out of position.
From the inside of the boat, a pencil line is marked along the top edge of the previous plank.
Each mould position is marked.
The stem angle is marked using a dummy stick along the rabbet.
The spile board is then removed and placed onto the lumber. Using a dummy stick, the top edge of the previous plank is marked out. Plank widths are measured at the mould positions, stem and transom. These marks are then faired with a batten.
The plank is then cut out on the bandsaw, planed to shape and thicknessed.
The forward brow ( bottom edge) is cut, and the overlap is marked all along the inner, bottom edge of the plank. It is then offered up to the boat and adjusted until it fits.
The plank is then removed. The top edge diminishing rebates are cut fore and aft and the aft bottom edge brow is planed on. For more details click here.
The inside of the plank is sanded and the top inside edge is chamfered.
A bedding compound such as sikaflex is used at stem and transom.
For an intersting article on repairing clinker planking, follow this link.